My first visit to Cambodia was in early 1992 when the UN (UNTAC) took over administration of the country. The UN were there to end the years of civil war which had ravaged Cambodia. There were many parts of the country which opened to the outside world for the first time in decades. There were also parts of the country which remained outside the control of the UN or government forces. These were mostly the regions close to the Thai border, which were under the control of the Khmer Rouge or 'Democratic Kampuchea' as they are known in Cambodia. 

Angkor Wat, Siem Reap

Pailin, with it's remote location and rich natural resources, was an ideal base for the Khmer Rouge. The close proximity to the Thai border meant the Khmer Rouge were able to trade and receive supplies, which enabled them to continue their insurgency.

Apsaras 

In 1994 the government launched an attack to crush the remaining pockets of Khmer Rouge. The government forces eventually over-ran Pailin where they proceeded to loot and pillage. The Khmer Rouge re-grouped in the surrounding hills and in the counter attack, forced the government troops eastwards almost to the outskirts of Battambang. In late 1996 the Khmer Rouge in Pailin, decided to lay down their weapons and in return they would be allowed to run Pailin as an autonomous province. The surrender at Pailin was a catalyst which eventually led to the end of the Khmer Rouge insurgency.

The Silver Pagoda, Phnom Penh

In March 2004, I was speaking with Khmer traders in Thailand who told me it was now possible for foreigners to cross the border at Phsa Prum and travel to Pailin. The trip was then arranged and I was accompanied by my friend and colleague Ted Themelis & his son, Angelo. 

Peter Grumitt.

Below is a graphical account of our trip. Larger images are available to registered users.

The bare hills which surround Pailin

The Samaki Market in central Pailin city

A Khmer market trader with her daughter

Gem cutters in the Samaki Market

Polishing sapphires

The Good Samaritan's Gem Cutting School

Please give up your weapons

The road to Phnom Yat

Scouring the ground for Sapphires

Wood cutter

A family home at Phnom Yat

Wat Phnom Yat

Hell

The Buddhist legend of Chu Chok Gun Ha Chali

Two nuns at Wat Phnom Yat

The Chedi at Wat Phnom Yat

The northerly view from Wat Phnom Yat

The view over Pailin from Wat Phnom Yat

The northerly view from Wat Phnom Yat

A Pailin family home

Open cast mining

A jig used for washing the gem bearing soil

Miners showing me parcels of sapphires

Myself & Ted inspecting parcels of sapphires

A mining operation west of Pailin city

Young Khmer children

A lucky find

Miners taking a lunch break